Friday, January 26

List of Mood Fabrics' Free Sewing Patterns

Who DOESN'T like FREE?! I can really appreciate something free these days when prices are forever creeping up. I also like the patterns (and the fabric, of course) that Mood has to offer. Nope. I am NOT a paid spokesman. I did want to see the full list of free patterns for myself from Mood's blog, Mood Sewciety, so I made a list of them. You can view it from my Google Drive.  I did include links to easily search for the patterns so that any updates or redux patterns could be found. You will have to go to their website to download the patterns.


List of Mood fabrics Mood Sewciety free patterns spreadsheet




Sunday, June 30

Picking Patterns

This tidbit hit me (some time ago) about picking the right size for a sewing pattern. 

(Not the tidbit)
You should pick the size of the pattern based on your measurements NOT the ready-to-wear size you would normally choose. 

Once you are ready to make adjustments to sew the pattern, you must consider the intended style of the pattern.  This means that you should be looking at the ease and drape of the garment.  Admittedly, this is very hard to get the whole intention from a flat image but, with practice, you will get better at mentally visualizing in 3D.   If your cup size is larger than C then you should also think about an FBA or if the built-in ease is enough to give you the room you need without adjustments.  Most ready-to-wear and sewing patterns (big four) are based on B or C cups.

(This is the tidbit)
In my opinion, the more fitted a garment is, the more important it is to pick the size based on the finished garment measurements especially if the style is for woven/non-stretch fabrics.  

Now, with that said, it is up to you and the style you are going for when you decide to sew up a pattern.  Sewing pattern instructions are the way to get the look as pictured/drawn. Since we all have very different topography, you're almost guaranteed to have to make some kind of adjustment if only to make the garment fit our personal style, even if your measurements match the pattern perfectly. For instance, you want to sew a basic tee and the pattern you have is basically a rectangle with holes (neck, arms, torso).  You like it to be a bit slimmer not tight but, you wear a DDD cup with a much smaller waist.  This means that below your bust apex there may be a lot of fabric blowing in the wind and you just want to take that in.

So to me, sewing patterns are the starting point or suggestions to get the intended look but, with your unique additions or adjustments for you!  This is why you should never worry about getting the exact result as you see in the pattern image.

Sunday, February 18

Rubber Feet Fabric Grippers for Acrylic Templates and Rullers

So, if you're like me then you like to cut as many layers of fabric as possible but, still be accurate.  I love using acrylic templates and rulers.  So much so, that I have started to make my own acrylic templates for cutting and sewing doll patterns...more or that in another post.

What I don't love is that even with a straight ruler, I have mange to cut circles (I exaggerate but, not by much) because the ruler was sliding so much. So I tried the very thin adhesive donut types but, they wore off after a few months.

  Then I tried the Invisigrip cling but that just wasn't enough. 
In both cases, the product did keep the ruler from slipping when I was cutting one or two layers of (mostly quilting cotton and light to medium apparel) fabric but when I added more layers where the template may be just above the cutting mat, the ruler may still move or even the fabric because I was using more pressure on the ruler and on the rotary cutter. 

Don't peel off the Invisigrip though, there's still a good use for it on your ruler...I then saw the clear door bumpers or furniture feet.  Those were just too thick.  Then I happend to find bumpers that were thinner but, of course i used them all, threw away the packaging which meant they were perfect!

It took me a little while to find them again but, I did and this time I noted the thickness.  They are 1.5mm thick.  Dritz makes them and I found some at Joann's Fabric store for around $5.50 for 24. 

 Then I searched for larger packs by entering "Clear Self-Adhesive Flat Rubber Feet 1.5mm" and found them on Amazon!  Usually in 100 to 128 packs for around $10.  I usually make sure the seller is showing an image of a foot in a side view next to something showing relative size.

The ones I really like are round and flat like these...

They really do grip the fabric especially when cutting more than two layers.  I have stuck them directly on the ruler/template and on the Invisigrip that was already there and they are working very well.  I have even repositioned ones directly on the ruler (after having the feet on there for a while) and it stayed!  I have found that putting them in corners, especially for triangle templates, works best.  What happens on three layers or less is that the fabric gets pushed a little and you end up with a curved tip. Then even applied along the edge. I have no hard and fast rule about it but, I will add an extra one if needed.

In summary, the 1.5mm feet work well with more layers because the feet sink into the fabric.  The Invisigrip worked will up to three or four layers depending on the fabric thickness.

Tuesday, February 6

Pocket ID Window

This is just the pocket with a vinyl window also called an ID pocket. This makes a 4.25” x 3.25” pocket with a 2” x 3” window. These instructions will help center and sew the vinyl.
  • Cut a single layer of fabric the finished width plus seam allowance multiplied by two and twice the finished length (it will be folded later) plus seam allowance multiplied by two. In this case I am using 1/8” seam allowances
  • Let’s use a 4.5” X 7” fabric rectangle and 2.5” X 4.5” vinyl rectangle. I usually use 4-6 gauge vinyl.
  • Fold fabric in half lengthwise and draw a 2” X 3” rectangle ¾” from the raw edges. Be sure the marker doesn’t seep through the fabric if you’re not using some kind of disappearing marking pen.
  • Cut an X, inside both boxes, from corner to corner.
  • Unfold and for both boxes, fold fabric inside the rectangle to the wrong side in order to open the window, being careful not to pull the corners.
  • Press it open to the finished window size, in this case 2” x 3”. Check the size of the window. This is a good point to add a dab of Fray Check or clear fabric glue to all the corners from the wrong side, if needed.
  • Cut the triangle tips down, leaving at least ¼” from the window fold.
  • Fold the long side in half with right sides together, matching the windows. It’s ok if the sides are off a tad but, get the windows lined up.
  • Now, place the vinyl; rectangle on one of the wrong sides. Center it while two of the sides are matching up with the fabric sides and clip together. You can pin it in place but, just be sure to keep the pin holes behind the window edge.
  • Sew the three raw edges at 1/8”; two of the sides will include the vinyl.
  • Trim the corners and turn right side out through the window. Again, check the window alignment.
  • Finger press the all the folds and seams.
  • You may need to lengthen your stitch when sewing through vinyl. If stitches are too short then they act like perforations and the vinyl will tear on its own during use. Top stitch 1/16” (as close as you can) around the folded edge of the window, making sure the windows are aligned.
  • I use the center of the presser foot to line up the fabric and the needle is repositioned to the far right. (See yellow arrow)
  • Before attaching it to your item, you can (optionally) stitch across the folded side, up to ¼” away from the fold. You may be catching the vinyl at that point, which is fine, I’m just pointing it out. You can try one of those decorative stitches on your sewing machine.
  • Place the pocket on your item. You can use the folded side as the opening of your pocket or the left or right side as the opening and stitch around the three sides at 1/16”. Be sure to back stitch at the opening corners to reinforce those top corners.
  

Sunday, November 5

You already have a thread puller

There is a seam ripper and thread remover/puller that you can buy. It is essentially a seam ripper, that I am sure you already have, with an eraser!

So, why not just use an eraser, that you probably already have. I use Staedtler Mars 52650 Plastic Eraser.

I don't know what the material is on the purchased thread remover but, I know that my eraser works pretty well. I also cut the eraser down a bit and put the smaller bits under the back feet of my sewing machine to tilt it toward me. This makes it easier to see when I am sewing.

Sunday, August 20

FREE Pinochle Tournament Score Sheet


I created a Pinochle tournament scoresheet for my Mom's club.  You can pay what you like to download.

You will need at least Microsoft Excel 2007 and you have to enable macros.  

You can have many names because you can create ANY SIZE, you can do mixed doubles, show the winners, and some other stuff.

Monday, August 7

Coats & Clark Color Conversion Guide

Coats & Clark Thread Conversion Chart Sorted by NEW Number

Use CTRL+F (Windows) or Command+F (Apple) to find what the old or new number, or the Coats & Clark name.

The purpose of this is to take advantage of the (not really) new numbering system that changed around 2008/9, maybe earlier.  Now that the numbers are based on color families, you can find the thread number you want and then find related shades and tints.

The new system is sequential and logical. Here’s the breakdown for the color families:
0001 to 999 White / Black / Grays (Neutrals)
1000 to 1999 Pinks
2000 to 2999 Reds
3000 to 3999 Purples
4000 to 4999 Blues
5000 to 5999 Aqua / Jades
6000 to 6999 Greens
7000 to 7999 Yellows / Golds / Oranges
8000 to 8999 Browns (Including Natural, Cream and beige)
9000 to 9999 Special Effects (Multi-colors, Twists, Metallic, Fluorescents, Tints, etc.)


I did this because I had a spool that had no stickers (in the middle), but it was close in color to a spool that did have an old sticker/number (the one on the right).  So I looked up the old number to find the new number and the colors around it.

By the way...I now use an ultra fine Sharpie to write the numbers on my thread when I get them.



Old Number New Number Color Name
400N 75 ARCTIC WHITE (EXTREME WHITE)
1 100 WHITE
470 150 WINTER WHITE
480 230 SILVER
24 260 NICKEL
23A 450 NUGREY
550 520 DARK SILVER
371 600 LT SLATE
26 620 SLATE
370 630 STONE
27 750 SMOKE
* 780 SHARKSKIN
373 850 CHARCOAL
28 880 OXFORD GREY
2 900 BLACK
499N 950 CELESTIAL BLACK (EXTREME BLACK)
495 1020 POWDER PINK
362 1040 SOFT MAUVE
310A 1060 ALMOND PINK
* 1080 DARK MAUVE
30 1180 LIGHT PINK
31 1210 PINK
32 1220 ROSE PINK
* 1340 BUBBLEGUM
393 1350 COTTON CANDY (MEXICAN PINK)
387 1360 ELLEN ROSE
385 1410 PINK CHAMPAGNE
* 1420 CORAL PINK
108 1430 CORAL
* 1440 SHRIMP
239 1470 FLAMINGO
110 1490 DARK CORAL
* 1520 ANTIQUE ROSE
284A 1540 CHINA ROSE
* 1560 CAMEO PINK
* 1590 MAUVE WOOD
158 1640 DK OLD ROSE
354 1650 LAUREL ROSE
32B 1830 DARK ROSE
320A 1840 HOT PINK
32C 1850 BRIGHT ROSE
* 1870 AZALEA
394 1940 HOT PETUNIA
33A 1980 MING CHERRY
* 1990 LIPSTICK
* 2100 CHILI PEPPER
128A 2160 ATOM RED
36A 2170 RED GERANIUM
* 2200 HERO RED
128 2250 RED
* 2300 CANDY APPLE
136C 2470 DEVIL RED
* 2500 TOMATO
184 2560 BRICK RUST
39A 2680 RED CHERRY
38 2780 SCARLET
39B 2820 BARBERRY RED
34C 2850 AMERICAN BEAUTY
41A 2900 DARK RED
311A 2950 HENNA BROWN
41B 2980 MAROON
277 3040 RED ROSE
491 3050 MAGENTA
35A 3070 FUCHSIA
* 3090 RED PLUM
* 3140 MOCHA PLUM
328 3190 ROYAL PLUM
379 3230 ROSE ORCHID
306A 3250 LAUREL
97 3320 ORCHID
487 3340 LIGHT VIOLET
96 3350 VIOLET
308A 3390 ULTRA-VIOLET
* 3420 HEATHER
488 3440 PURPLE HAZE
326A 3460 MULBERRY
* 3480 MULBERRY WINE
* 3510 LILAC MIST
91 3530 LILAC
375 3550 LAVENDER
486 3570 SEA GRAPE
* 3620 LAVENDER BLISS
97B 3660 DEEP VIOLET
98 3690 PURPLE
381 3740 AMETHYST
282A 3760 LT PURPLE
485 3820 LIGHT IRIS
315A 3840 WILD IRIS
* 3860 VINTAGE PURPLE
314A 3970 DEEP PURPLE
12 3980 MARINE
419 4010 CRYSTAL BLUE
* 4020 SEPTEMBER SKY
05B 4030 CIELO BLUE
* 4040 HYACINTH
* 4060 THUNDERCLOUD
* 4070 CLOUDY BLUE
04D 4080 FIRMAMENT BLUE
505 4120 LIGHT CORNFLOWER
420 4130 CORNFLOWER
* 4150 TRUE BLUE
* 4160 CRAYON BLUE
413 4190 ADMIRAL
506 4230 BLUE BONNET
341 4250 PERIWINKLE
10 4270 MONACO BLUE
* 4280 BLUE RIBBON
* 4290 INDIGO
409 4310 ICY BLUE
4 4320 BLUE
* 4350 BABY BLUE
04E 4360 MIRACLE BLUE
04A 4370 MEDIUM BLUE
04B 4450 PILOT BLUE
411 4460 COMMODORE
9 4470 YALE BLUE
* 4480 CASPIAN SEA
5 4540 COPENHAGEN
106C 4550 SOLDIER BLUE
* 4560 BLUE JAY
412 4580 BLUE CHIP
407 4620 CHAMBRAY
105A 4630 AZURE BLUE
118 4640 MINIATURE BLUE
* 4650 SUNWASHED BLUE
* 4660 FADED DENIM
422 4670 COSMOS BLUE
3 4720 CIEL
* 4740 BLUE RIDGE
* 4760 BLUE SLATE
* 4780 BLUE STONE
417 4840 DK MIDNIGHT
* 4860 INDIGO INK
12A 4880 FREEDOM BLUE
13 4900 NAVY
* 4920 GUNMETAL NAVY
14 4940 DARK NAVY
* 4960 NIGHT WATCH
418 4980 BLUE BLACK
* 5020 AQUA MARINE
* 5040 BLUE HAWAII
168 5050 TREASURE BLUE
* 5080 GLOBAL BLUE
565 5130 HUMMINGBIRD BLUE
171 5140 ROCKET BLUE
510 5160 RADIANT BLUE
511 5220 LIGHT PARAKEET
512 5240 MALLARD
190 5260 CRUISE BLUE
132A 5270 PARAKEET
429 5280 PARROT BLUE
140B 5360 LT TEAL BLUE
279 5380 DARK TEAL
122A 5420 BLUE AQUA
139A 5450 RIVER BLUE
435 5480 ORIENTAL TEAL
* 5520 AQUEOUS
122C 5550 MIST AQUA
140 5570 ORIENTAL BLUE
427 5620 LIGHT AQUA
566 5660 AQUA
58B 5720 SPRAY GREEN
517 5750 BAHAMA
516 5760 MING TEAL
432 5820 CARIBBEAN SEA
138 5840 LIGHT JADE
* 5870 DARK JADE
331 5950 MISTY SPRUCE
323A 5980 SCOTS GREEN
61 6030 CLOUDY JADE
58A 6050 POWDER GREEN
59 6070 SAGE
* 6110 CELADON
294A 6120 CELERY
58 6140 MIGNONETTE
572 6160 LT GREEN LINEN
337 6170 PEBBLE
347 6180 GREEN LINEN
577 6210 LT OKRA
525 6220 OKRA
576 6240 PERIDOT
* 6260 LT. TOURMALINE
359 6270 KIWI
* 6280 NEW LEAF
* 6320 LIGHT OLIVE
444 6340 OLIVE
164B 6360 BRONZE GREEN
   291A     6380 SPINACH
57 6420 NILE GREEN
57A 6430 DARK NILE GREEN
287A 6450 BRIGHT GREEN
* 6470 LEPRECHAUN
62 6530 EMERALD
177 6550 KERRY GREEN
* 6570 FERN
571 6620 BRIGHT MINT
* 6640 SPEARMINT
63A 6670 FIELD GREEN
* 6740 JUNIPER
521 6750 HUNTER GREEN
61A 6770 FOREST GREEN
441 6780 DARK FOREST
448 6790 DK SPINACH
222 6840 LIME
520 6850 BRIGHT APPLE
524 6920 CHARTREUSE
* 6940 GOLDEN OLIVE
361 6950 SAFARI
127A 6970 ARMY DRAB
292A 6980 OLIVENITE
293A 6990 TAUPE GREEN
83A 7040 JUNGLE GOLD
* 7050 BRASS
* 7110 LEMON FIZZ
* 7120 BABY YELLOW
* 7240 BANANA PEEL
321A 7250 SUN YELLOW
223 7260 MIMOSA
* 7270 RUBBER DUCK
72A 7310 PRIMROSE
157A 7330 YELLOW
182 7360 SPARK GOLD
15A 7410 PONGEE
* 7430 HAY RIDE
83B 7450 TEMPLE GOLD
452 7460 SPANISH GOLD
* 7470 AMBER
530 7510 CHAMOIS
73C 7520 MAIZE
74 7540 GOLDENROD
531 7560 SAFFRON
83F 7570 MINE GOLD
224 7580 TORTOISE
* 7620 PUMPKIN
462 7630 TANGERINE (ADVANCE ORANGE)
* 7640 ORANGE
135C 7650 TANGO
* 7670 BURNT ORANGE
336 7710 ORANGE WHIP (DK PRIMROSE)
* 7730 CREAMSICLE
* 7740 LIGHT ORANGE
324A 7750 KUMQUAT
75A 7760 DARK ORANGE
* 7810 RED CLAY
77A 7820 RUST
300A 7830 BRIGHT RUST
* 7840 PAPRIKA
391 7850 BLUSH (DUSTY PEACH)
586 7860 TERRACOTTA
280 7870 RUSTANA RED
* 7890 RUM RAISIN
* 7910 PALE PEACH
* 7920 PEACH BLUSH
* 7930 SALMON
135B 7940 CORAL RUST
135A 7950 TOMATO BISQUE
540 8000 PEARL
256 8010 NATURAL
116 8020 CREAM
16 8030 ECRU
18 8040 BEIGE
17 8050 BUFF
544 8060 PRALINE
542 8120 TAN
* 8140 GOLDEN TAN
581 8150 SPICE (CINNAMON)
591 8170 COFFEE
47 8180 CAFE BEIGE
357 8190 BROWN CHESTNUT
* 8220 LT. CAMEL
309A 8230 CAMEL
543 8240 HEMP
* 8340 SAHARA
54A 8360 SUMMER BROWN
54 8380 SEAL BROWN
593 8390 ESPRESSO
102 8420 DARK LINEN
541 8430 FAWN
126 8440 KHAKI
* 8450 DARK KHAKI
* 8480 TWIG
155 8530 DOGWOOD
473 8540 MUSHROOM
18A 8550 TAUPE CLAIR
187 8630 DRIFTWOOD (BEAVER)
21B 8650 COCOON
590 8660 MANATEE (CREME DE COCOA)
* 8670 DOLPHIN
* 8720 RAW SUGAR
592 8730 BROWN SUGAR
102A 8750 MAPLE SUGAR
48A 8770 LONDON TAN
102G 8820 DARK DOGWOOD
312A 8840 COPPER MIST
319A 8860 SPANISH TILE
545 8880 CHERRY MAHOGANY
50 8890 DARK BROWN
* 8950 CHOCOLATE
51 8960 CHONA BROWN
594 8970 FRENCH ROAST
56B 8980 CLOISTER BROWN
475 8990 RAISIN
* 9115 PINK TINT
* 9135 LAVENDER TINT
* 9145 BLUE TINT
* 9155 AQUA TINT
* 9165 GREEN TINT
* 9170 YELLOW TINT
* 9175 PEACH TINT
* 9185 CHAMPAGNE TINT
401N 9213 NEON PINK
411N 9215 BRIGHT FUCHSIA
418N 9218 BRIGHT CORAL
406N 9225 BRIGHT RED
437N 9238 BRIGHT DEEP PURPLE
437N 9238 BRIGHT DEEP PURPLE
409N 9245 BRIGHT SAPPHIRE
412N 9255 BRIGHT PARAKEET
439N 9257 BRIGHT AQUA GREEN
439N 9257 BRIGHT AQUA GREEN
402N 9265 NEON GREEN
441N 9267 BRIGHT KELLEY
441N 9267 BRIGHT KELLEY
408N 9271 NEON BRIGHT YELLOW
421N 9272 BRIGHT SUN YELLOW
415N 9274 BRIGHT GOLD
434N 9275 NEON TIGERLILY
422N 9277 BRIGHT PUMPKIN
404N 9278 NEON ORANGE
865 9312 BABY PASTELS (MULTI)
882 9314 SHERBET (MULTI)
823 9325 BOWL OF CHERRIES (MULTI)
810 9334 PLUM SHADOWS (MULTI)
818 9336 PLUMBERRIES (MULTI)
845 9343 BLUE CLOUDS (MULTI)
813 9345 OVER THE RAINBOS (MULTI)
887 9347 JEWELS (MULTI)
855 9363 SPRING GREEN (MULTI)
811 9365 TEABERRIES (MULTI)
889 9367 MEXICANA (MULTI)
826 9373 SUNNY DAY (MULTI)
812 9375 SANDSTONE (MULTI)
821 9377 FALL LEAVES (MULTI)
829 9382 OLD LACE (MULTI)
880 9386 AUTUMN (MULTI)
800 9410 PEARL (METALLIC)
802 9420 SILVER (METALLIC)
809 9430 BRIGHT GOLD (METALLIC)
801 9440 GOLD (METALLIC)
803 9450 COPPER (METALLIC)
806 9460 EMERALD (METALLIC)
811 9470 RUBY (METALLIC)
.004C 9900 CLEAR (TRANSPARENT)
.004S 9950 SMOKE (TRANSPARENT)
* New Color in Dual Duty XP