Rubber Feet Fabric Grippers for Acrylic Templates and Rullers

So, if you're like me then you like to cut as many layers of fabric as possible but, still be accurate.  I love using acrylic templates and rulers.  So much so, that I have started to make my own acrylic templates for cutting and sewing doll patterns...more or that in another post.

What I don't love is that even with a straight ruler, I have mange to cut circles (I exaggerate but, not by much) because the ruler was sliding so much. So I tried the very thin adhesive donut types but, they wore off after a few months.

  Then I tried the Invisigrip cling but that just wasn't enough. 

In both cases, the product did keep the ruler from slipping when I was cutting one or two layers of (mostly quilting cotton and light to medium apparel) fabric but when I added more layers where the template may be just above the cutting mat, the ruler may still move or even the fabric because I was using more pressure on the ruler and on the rotary cutter. 

Don't peel off the Invisigrip though, there's still a good use for it on your ruler...I then saw the clear door bumpers or furniture feet.  Those were just too thick.  Then I happend to find bumpers that were thinner but, of course i used them all, threw away the packaging which meant they were perfect!

It took me a little while to find them again but, I did and this time I noted the thickness.  They are 1.5mm thick.  Dritz makes them and I found some at Joann's Fabric store for around $5.50 for 24. 

 Then I searched for larger packs by entering "Clear Self-Adhesive Flat Rubber Feet 1.5mm" and found them on Amazon!  Usually in 100 to 128 packs for around $10.  I usually make sure the seller is showing an image of a foot in a side view next to something showing relative size.

The ones I really like are round and flat like these...

They really do grip the fabric especially when cutting more than two layers.  I have stuck them directly on the ruler/template and on the Invisigrip that was already there and they are working very well.  I have even repositioned ones directly on the ruler (after having the feet on there for a while) and it stayed!  I have found that putting them in corners, especially for triangle templates, works best.  What happens on three layers or less is that the fabric gets pushed a little and you end up with a curved tip. Then even applied along the edge. I have no hard and fast rule about it but, I will add an extra one if needed.

In summary, the 1.5mm feet work well with more layers because the feet sink into the fabric.  The Invisigrip worked will up to three or four layers depending on the fabric thickness.

Pocket ID Window

This is just the pocket with a vinyl window also called an ID pocket. This makes a 4.25” x 3.25” pocket with a 2” x 3” window. These instructions will help center and sew the vinyl.

• Cut a single layer of fabric the finished width plus seam allowance multiplied by two and twice the finished length (it will be folded later) plus seam allowance multiplied by two. In this case I am using 1/8” seam allowances
• Let’s use a 4.5” X 7” fabric rectangle and 2.5” X 4.5” vinyl rectangle. I usually use 4-6 gauge vinyl.
• Fold fabric in half lengthwise and draw a 2” X 3” rectangle ¾” from the raw edges. Be sure the marker doesn’t seep through the fabric if you’re not using some kind of disappearing marking pen.
• Cut an X, inside both boxes, from corner to corner.

• Unfold and for both boxes, fold fabric inside the rectangle to the wrong side in order to open the window, being careful not to pull the corners.

• Press it open to the finished window size, in this case 2” x 3”. Check the size of the window. This is a good point to add a dab of Fray Check or clear fabric glue to all the corners from the wrong side, if needed.
• Cut the triangle tips down, leaving at least ¼” from the window fold.
• Fold the long side in half with right sides together, matching the windows. It’s ok if the sides are off a tad but, get the windows lined up.
• Now, place the vinyl; rectangle on one of the wrong sides. Center it while two of the sides are matching up with the fabric sides and clip together. You can pin it in place but, just be sure to keep the pin holes behind the window edge.

• Sew the three raw edges at 1/8”; two of the sides will include the vinyl.

• Trim the corners and turn right side out through the window. Again, check the window alignment.
• Finger press the all the folds and seams.
• You may need to lengthen your stitch when sewing through vinyl. If stitches are too short then they act like perforations and the vinyl will tear on its own during use. Top stitch 1/16” (as close as you can) around the folded edge of the window, making sure the windows are aligned.
• I use the center of the presser foot to line up the fabric and the needle is repositioned to the far right. (See yellow arrow)

• Before attaching it to your item, you can (optionally) stitch across the folded side, up to ¼” away from the fold. You may be catching the vinyl at that point, which is fine, I’m just pointing it out. You can try one of those decorative stitches on your sewing machine.

• Place the pocket on your item. You can use the folded side as the opening of your pocket or the left or right side as the opening and stitch around the three sides at 1/16”. Be sure to back stitch at the opening corners to reinforce those top corners.